12300 feet. Our final elevation. Our day started at a mere 7600 feet, at the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. Although you'd expect the climb to be the hardest part of the day, the elevation of the area was in fact far worse.
Elevation has a huge effect on your body, much of which may not be immediately obvious. While walking across town in Grand Lake last night, I was panting for air despite the extremely low exertion. At 12300 feet, an otherwise gradual and relatively easy hill becomes an insurmountable mountain, as the body tries to utilize more oxygen than the lungs can provide. The first 20 feet after a brief rest feels so great, so easy, yet it quickly becomes nearly impossible after your muscles have burned all the available oxygen.
Despite the 25 mile 4000 foot climb, the extreme elevation, and all the associated hardships, the mountain was absolutely spectacular. Each turn, each hairpin provided new vistas, more beauty. At each turn, I thought, wow, I should take more pictures – it can't get any better than this. Yet it does. At the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park, we were already stunned by the view. The beauty there was breathtaking, snowcapped mountains framed by lush evergreen forest. Within a few miles of entering the park, we were already a few hundred feet up, and we stopped to take pictures of various people climbing a tree.
We first passed snow around 9800 feet. Just pass the 10560 ft elevation sign (2 miles above sea level!), we stopped and launched a few snowballs at passing riders. Unfortunately, we didn't hit anyone, but it gave us a moment to reflect – we just biked from Baltimore to snow in the middle of summer! As we pushed on, the elevation made moving harder and harder, but we were motivated by the majesty of the views. Just short of 11,700 feet, we passed the famed “4K Rock”, and everyone took pictures of the mountain with bikes over their heads.
When we finally reached the highest elevation on the road – 12,183 feet, we stopped for some pictures. Greg told us that he climbed the hill just behind the road last year, so we figured we might as well do the same. The route up was extremely rocky and steep, but reaching the top was absolutely worth the effort. At our final elevation – 12,314 feet, we took panoramic pictures and videos. The surrounding peaks no longer towered above us, and the crystal clear sky allowed us views for miles. The sense of accomplishment was palpable, which didn't even account for the anticipation of our coming descent.
After a brief stop at the lodge at 11,796 feet for some lunch, we set off on our descent. Within a few hundred feet of leaving the lodge, I was already at 30 mph and climbing. The first hairpin was a hair RAISING ordeal. The label for the turn was only 15 mph, but I couldn't brake down to less than 25 mph. What more could I do but bank as hard as I can and hope there's no gravel? The turn was off the edge of a cliff, and I couldn't decide what I wanted to look at more – the road, or the mountains in the distance. Good thing I choose the road, otherwise I would be PART of the mountains right now!
After dropping a good 1000 feet at petrifying speeds, we arrived at the continental divide. On one side of the line, water flowed toward the Atlantic ocean; on the other side, the Pacific. More pictures later, we descended another 1000 feet toward Grand Lake. The hairpins kept coming, but our speeds kept climbing. Although each turn was labeled for only 15 mph, we topped out at 35. That was by far the most out of vertical I've ever been on a bike! Through the entire descent, the exhilaration was matched only by the beauty of the mountains in the distance, and it was a constant battle for attention – control of the bike or the beautiful view.
As we ended our descent, the mountains opened up to Grand Lake, a spectacular lake nestled within mountains. As night passed, we were stunned by the sky, packed with many more stars than normally visible. Although the town had many street lamps, the Milky Way remained obvious. The entire day will be one I will remember for the rest of my life.
-James Gao
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